City Guide: Bangkok devoured

Agalico - an amazing, all white teahouse and cake stop in Bangkok

Hi there! I've written a little guide to one of my favourite cities, Bangkok, which you can read at my new blog devoured. I'll be in Bangkok in just over a month - hopefully I'll come across some cool new places to share!

Visit my new blog, devoured!

I've finally got my blogging act together and started a follow-up blog to A Girl in Asia (now that I've left the continent it's not the most applicable blog name, as sad as I am to let it go!). Called devoured, it covers delicious eats, cool cafes, Sydney neighbourhoods and (eventually) travel beyond Australia. A Girl in Asia will stay online as a resource/reference/trip down memory lane, but for now I'll be at devoured. Hope to see you there!

Goodbye, Vietnam!

It feels surreal to be saying goodbye but it's my last day in Vietnam today! The bags are packed, the farewells have been said, and tomorrow morning we fly to Bangkok for one last Asian mini-break (ok, and shopping spree) before heading back to Sydney to live.

It's been an amazing four and a half years living in Phnom Penh and then Saigon - full of the some of the biggest ups and downs I've ever felt but overall, a life changing experience. During that time I've travelled lots, had two kids and scored my dream job (Deputy Editor of a magazine!). I've made some amazing friends in both cities, eaten a ridiculous amount of great food and drunk copious amounts of good coffee. I've forgotten how to clean(!) and how to catch public transport - the adjustment to life back in the 'real world' may be a tough one! I'm really looking forward to fresh air, parks, empty sidewalks and comparatively empty roads, Sydney stuff like farmers markets and art galleries and concerts and events, catching up with old friends and rediscovering pretty much everything.

There are lots of things I'll miss (mostly food and people and cheap stuff!) but lots of things I won't (the traffic, the pollution, the noise - don't get me started on the noise!). I think it'll be a tumultuous time ahead re-establishing a life in Sydney, but hopefully it will feel like the right move. As for blogging - I've loved connecting with like-minded souls around the world and don't want the virtual friendships to end! I'm not sure of the fate of A Girl in Asia just yet (I don't want to say goodbye!) and I'll definitely continue reading and commenting on all my favourite blogs. Please drop by now and then as I may post a link to a new Sydney-based blog once I'm on my feet and think up my next blogging move! Better go - there's still a little more packing to do in our over-stuffed bags which somehow have to fit lots of Bangkok purchases too(!).

{Saigon Eats} Cuc Gach Quan

I have just been (for the second time in less than a week!) to one of the most stunning, inspiring, elegant, amazing restaurants, and it's right in my neighbourhood! I can't believe I've only been introduced to this place two weeks before I depart Saigon, so obviously, a few more visits are in order!

Cuc Gach Quan is a Vietnamese 'country' style restaurant, with its menu offering a nod to the way dishes were once prepared - without msg or ingredients affected by fertilisers. The tofu and the soy sauce are homemade, and the juices are natural and pure with no sugar added, but a little jug of honey is served on the side. The food is delicious (especially the lemongrass tofu and the pork in claypot) and the decor is amazing, with antique/distressed wood furniture, gorgeous blue and white crockery and drinks served in glass bottles with rolled up banana leaf stoppers. There's a fish and turtle pond between the front room and the open kitchen at the back, and a steep staircase leading up to more gorgeous seating. The restaurant is architect owned and designed - and it shows!

I'm in love with this place, and I can't wait to go back. For more about Cuc Gach Quan, see this piece in Travel + Leisure, or check out some of the feature articles on its website.

Cuc Gach Quan, 10 Dang Tat, Tan Dinh, District 1, Saigon, Tel: 38480144 or 01657101010


Images courtesy Cuc Gach Quan

Obsessed... in Saigon

Mini profiteroles at L'Usine

I love to try new things as much as the next person, but sometimes, I obsess over tried and true favourites I must order, must eat or must buy! In Phnom Penh, I couldn't get enough of the brownies at The Shop, the Kampot pepper chocolate at Chocolate by the Shop, the lasagne at Pop...the list goes on. Here in Saigon, I've also built up a repertoire of regulars I can't live without (and yes, I realise they're not exactly 'Vietnamese' foods but I think I take commonly available things for granted, seeking out rarer, more craveworthy things!). Current obsessions include:

Fanny icecream - particularly mint and choc chip and vanilla macadamia, and their seasonal Asian flavours like ginger and anise. This might be my overall favourite Vietnamese brand - of anything!
Pacharan - I must have the chorizo at least once a month (I know - so bad for food miles - it's flown in from Spain). The gambas al pil pil (garlic prawns) are pretty addictive too.
Au Parc - nemisis cake, nemisis cake, nemisis cake - I must have eaten my weight in this decadent chocolate concoction since moving to Saigon. Or maybe even more.
Shang Palace - I've always loved yum cha (or dim sum as it's known here), but Shang Palace has become something of an obsession. Though I'm off to Ocean Palace tomorrow (the one near the zoo) just to mix it up a little!
Da Vinci's - a home delivered pizza place I've somehow only just cottoned onto. So good, and so much better than the other Italian places we've tried. My pick - the Greek pizza with olives and feta!
Saigon Square - the city's answer to Phnom Penh's Russian Market. I love trawling the crowded stalls for clothing bargains, like a check shirt I just got for a steal. Even better are the kids clothes, should you need them.
Kita Cafe - the coffee here (Lavazza - not Vietnamese, I know!) is the smoothest brew I've come across in the city. When I'm over my cafe sua da's at local places I crave a Kita cappuccino.
L'Usine - any dessert. So far have tried their mini profiteroles with raspberry sauce, chocolate fudge cake and their latest addition - cupcakes! All... so... good!

Time is fast running out for getting my favourite food (and shopping) fixes here as I'm soon moving back to Sydney, where a whole world of gastronomic temptation awaits (yay!). In the meantime, I need to make the most of what I like best about Saigon (and block out the rest!).

Image courtesy of L'Usine

Friday fun - AGIA in words

What's A Girl in Asia all about? According to Wordle, mostly food (yes!), with a bit of love, people and blogs thrown in for good measure. Glad coffee, travel and Muji are there too, but not sure how 'dog' made the cut! What does your blog say about you?!


(Click here to enlarge)

{Behind the Blog} Marie of Shantiwallah

Marie in Laos

Shantiwallah has been one of my must-read blogs for some time now, so I'm happy to introduce you to its author, Marie. Her time living in Asia has had an obvious impact on her life, which is reflected so beautifully in this recent blog post. She's also a freelance writer and finds the time to maintain a food focussed blog called Five Flavours. Here's more on Marie:


Where have you lived, and where are you now?
I lived in various parts of the United States until I was 18. Since then I’ve lived in England, Vietnam, Japan and New Zealand, which is where I am now. I’ve also spent a lot of time in Thailand including some short term work. I am a US/NZ dual national.

Why do you blog?
Like many people, I started blogging to keep in touch with friends and family. Since then it has really become a place for me to practice my writing and put it in front of real live people (before that it was all in books made of paper that stay on my shelves) and to connect with like-minded souls of which, it seems, there are many. That’s what I love about the internet.

Where did the name 'Shantiwallah' come from? What does it mean?
It’s about how I see others as my teachers. I’ve written about it in more detail here.

Can you tell us about Five Flavours, your food website? 
I started my food blog in order to talk about the connections between food, people and culture. I’ve always loved how people use food to connect and enjoy finding out the story behind a particular recipe or way of cooking. If you ask anyone what their favourite food is, even if they just tell you the name of it, they will have a story in their mind as to why they like that particular thing. Very often these stories are connected to other people.

What are you currently...

...reading?
The Poisonwood Bible. It’s been on my shelf for ages from one of my English language book binges that I used to go on when I lived in Asia and came across a sale. I know now there are Kindle readers, but as far as I know Kindles still don’t have that new book smell, so…

…listening to?
I’m rediscovering my old CDs (remember CDs?) that I stored while I was in Asia. They are all 6+ years old so it’s like a time warp. I’m slowly uploading or ditching them. I’d love some new music!

…watching?
Not a lot at the moment. New Zealand TV goes through phases of good and bad which is good for me because I’d rather not suck up my evenings with addictive TV. There are a lot of awesome docos on the Maori Channel and they also play really good foreign films. I did watch the Chilean miner rescue. Oh my God, humans are amazing!

...cooking?
I’m into Central Asian food at the moment from old Silk Route places. I love how the recipes change through the various countries with local additions to ingredients or a slight change in name but you can still recognize them as being related.

…eating?
At the moment it is starting to get a wee bit more spring-like so my husband and I have been overindulging on lighter summery Japanese food such as zaru soba and other cold noodles and salads.

...drinking?
This week it was something we really miss from living in a specialty region of Japan, sake! My husband, who is an ex-scientist, writes a tongue in cheek blog called the Journal of Applied Drinks Studies International where he reviews random drinks we find in our local supermarket and small shops. I am one of his “research assistants” so we try to do a tasting at least once a week. We also drink a lot of New Zealand wines, and on a different note, I am pretty much obsessed with tea of all kinds.

…wearing?
It’s been so cold that I’ve been I’ve mostly been wearing jeans and hoodies, But now that it’s warming up I’m looking forward to wearing something with a bit more style to it.

…planning?
More short escapes around New Zealand. Last month my husband took 6 days off work and we drove down to the Hawke’s Bay wine country. It was the first time we’d been down there and it was fantastic. They’ve got a wonderful local food and wine scene. Long term we’d like to save enough money to go abroad again, but since I’m still pretty new at the freelance writing game our income is limiting.

…obsessed with?
Nostalgia for travelling. I’m still getting my business going and it’s a wee bit hard for me to be grounded in one place. It’s all good though!

Thanks Marie!

{Shoptalk} Le Van Au Furniture

I now feel a little bit more in the secret Saigon know with reader Franziska's revelation of a stockpile of charming old, restored furniture - the kind you wish you could find but seems few and far between in rapidly modernising Saigon.

Wrought iron lanterns, antique wooden chests, art deco sideboards and gorgeous chests of drawers compete for space in a rustic old tin roofed shed, with a further (and better) treasure trove inside a dark, cavernous warehouse through an old wooden blue door to the right.

No purchases were made (this time) but thoughts of sending pieces home by the shipping crate load definitely crossed my mind!

Where? Look for the Pho 2000 on Pasteur, just off Le Loi and across the road from the Paris Deli and Cafe Terrace at Saigon Centre. Enter the decrepit looking archway to the right that leads to a motorbike parking area, and all will be revealed!

Le Van Au Furniture, 122 Pasteur, D1, Saigon, Tel: 0903 701 426

{Cafe Crush} Farm, Saigon

Just as I was in a bit of a Saigon cafe rut, sticking to a few tried and true favourites and thinking all the good places had been discovered, along comes Farm - and only a stone's throw from my apartment!

It started with a sign, which we initially thought to be leading to some kind of produce purveyor (fresh food from an organic farm in Dalat, perhaps?)...

After heading down a wider than usual residential laneway, complete with potted plants outside every building Farm was revealed...

A heavy wooden door slid open to reveal a garden-like entrance, low wooden ceiling and a cavernous space with cute, farm themed touches - mini hessian sacks as pillows, watering cans and flowers as table centrepieces and coffee tables constructed of chicken wire. A mix of antique cameras, clocks and chairs were thrown in for good measure, to create a kitsch and very creative space - a totally unexpected find in our little patch of the city!

Go for: A 'Cafe Farm' - a bowl full of iced coffee laced with liqueur
Not for: Lunch - the food menu is minimal, it's more of a drinks place. But there is ice-cream!

Farm, 214/19/8C Nguyen Van Nguyen, Tan Dinh Ward, D1, Tel: (08) 3848 2515

{Behind the Blog} Xander from Primitive Culture // Taiwan Famous

Primitive Culture is one of the most inspiring blogs I read, with food, travel and style insights from globetrotter Xander. He has also just started another blog, Taiwan Famous, chronicling food exploits in his new home. Not only does Xander have a penchant for street eats and local produce, but he seeks out cool cafes wherever he travels, making him something of a kindred blogging spirit of mine! Here's more about Xander:

Where do you live/where are you now?
I have just moved to Hsinchu, Taiwan. It’s about an hour South of Taipei (though only half an hour by high speed rail), with some big city benefits, but a nicely relaxed pace of life.

Hsinchu Night Market

What are you currently...

...reading?
I’ve just started reading “This Side of Paradise”, which will, sadly, be the last new F. Scott Fitzgerald novel for me.

…listening to?
I’ve always had a fondness for old music—I love Big Band. Lately I’ve been playing a lot of goofy happy songs by Doris Day, and moody latin numbers by Xavier Cugat. I’m also just now getting into Podcasts—I love how a relaxed hour of listening can fill me up with so many new ideas. I especially love This American Life and The Splendid Table.

…watching?
While I was in the States recently I finally caught up on watching the rest of Six Feet Under—I still can’t get over what an amazing show it was. It might have ruined me for TV forever—no show could ever be as good.

...cooking?
With so much great, cheap street food around in Taiwan, I’m not cooking too much lately. But I’m excited to be getting a new kitchen soon (we’re still apartment hopping), and to start stocking it with produce from local markets and shops.

…eating?
Hsinchu is a great city for eating local Taiwanese food—it’s especially famous for xiao chi (“little eats”). We’ve discovered some great spots recently—we just found two different places that make delicious duck noodles. My favorite snacks right now are zhua bing, flaky pancakes studded with scallions, and baotze, steamed buns filled with pork.

...drinking?
Not enough, really. With summer in full force I’d love to be mixing some gin and bitters, or maybe a gin fizz, but no apartment means no bar yet!

…wearing?
We were in the states for a few months before moving to Taiwan, and I loaded up at some of my favorite stores. I really miss American Apparel, J. Crew, and H&M—but at least I brought a heavy suitcase with me from the states. I mainly loaded up on clothes in shades of peacock and navy blue. Wearing navy blue is a new thing for me—I used to have to wear navy blue as part of a uniform at Catholic school, so for years I hated the color.

…planning?
We’ve been traveling since January, and I’m getting excited about the idea of having an apartment of our own again, so I’m already figuring how I want to decorate it, what we need to get, what the layout will be… We might have found a place that is just what we were looking for, so we’re hoping to sign a lease soon. It’s a really funky old ‘60s Chinese style place—it looks like something out of a Wong Kar Wai movie.

…obsessed with?
Muji! I wish I had a salary high enough stock my entire apartment with streamlined Muji furniture, but as it is I’m making do with some new Muji bags and clothes. I’m also dreaming of a trip to Japan, partly so I can visit one of the mythically huge Muji stores…

My other obsession right now is my new dog, Japie (an Afrikaans name said like Yaw-pie). Neither my husband or I are dog people, but we’ve always talked about getting a French bull dog some day. Then just after we got to Taiwan, we met someone who was trying to find a home for one… we met him, totally fell for him, and now he’s my sole topic of conversation.

Favourite cuisines?
We found a great Vietnamese place today, a total hole in the wall, and I was once again reminded of what an amazing cuisine that country has. The cool, herby flavors are especially fantastic for summer—a banana flower salad and a glass of lime and soda sounds like the ideal lunch to me. Conversely, I have some very American tastebuds—well made pizza and hamburgers are two of my favorite foods.

Fresh produce in Vietnam

Favourite travel destinations?
Hanoi is one of my favorite cities—great for shopping, eating, taking in culture, and relaxing in cafes. I also think Cape Town might be one of the best destinations in the world. After living there for a year, I don’t think I want to go back full-time, but as a get-away it’s perfect: beautiful beaches, hiking trails, and some excellent cafes.

Capetown

Next trip planned?
My parents are coming to visit soon, and we’ll be heading off for a few days in Bali, then heading back here so I can show them a little of Taiwan. I’ve never been to Bali, but I might actually be more excited about Taiwan—it’s a fascinating island, and there’s still so much of it I haven’t seen.

If you could live anywhere in the world for a year, where and why?
I’m so eager to try living in the US again, especially LA, my favorite city in the world. But I’m also vaguely curious to try living in the South for a while, to explore some swamps and learn more about the fantastic food…

Who/what inspires you?
I am definitely a city person, and the closer to downtown I can live the happier I am. But I’m also really inspired by nature—right now the lush greens of Taiwan’s bamboo forests are filling up my sketchbooks. I love studying the forms and shapes of animals and plants.

3 of your must-read blogs?
Despite sort of being a ‘travel blogger’ I don’t actually read many travel blogs, unless they have a focus on food or style. More than just reading about people going places, I love reading about what people are eating, where they’re enjoying coffee, or what they’re wearing or making.

I love Readymade Magazine, and they have a fantastic set of blogs—my favorite is their food blog, Feast, which always has great ideas for what you should be eating.

I’m also really into David Lebovitz lately. I know he lives in Paris, which is obviously quite a bit different from Taiwan, but reading the culinary explorations of a fellow expatriate make me want to get up and go search out some interesting local ingredients and dishes.

And though its admittedly a little girly, Design*Sponge is one of my favorite daily reads—especially now that food and entertaining seems to be getting expanded coverage on their blog.

Thanks for inviting me to participate!

....................................................................

Thanks Xander!

{FAQ} Having a baby in Bangkok

It's been a bit quiet on the A Girl in Asia blogging front lately - I've been kind of busy having baby number 2! Sofia Camille was born just over a week ago at Samitivej Hospital in Bangkok. She's gorgeous and healthy and doing really well so far!

As I'm often getting emails from readers wanting to know the ins and outs of having a baby in Asia, now seems like a good time to do a Frequently Asked Questions post addressing some of the main things people want to know about. Most questions are relevant to people living in Phnom Penh or Saigon (my Asian homes, past and present), since that's where most of the questions have come from:

Q: Should I have a baby while living in Phnom Penh/Saigon? What's the medical care like? 
A: Yes! Being pregnant in either city is no different to being pregnant anywhere else, provided you're careful with the usual hygiene issues and don't eat anything you're not meant to! International standard medical care is available in both cities (in Phnom Penh I went to SOS, in Saigon, Family Medical Centre) however keep in mind that in PP you will have to travel somewhere else (like Bangkok) for the two main ultrasounds. They can do basic ultrasounds at SOS and at other clinics in the city, but not the more complex ones like the down syndrome screening. For my first pregnancy I travelled to Bangkok for these and had them done at Samitivej Hospital. Another thing to consider is getting a friend or family member to bring you pre-natal vitamins from home, if you have a specific brand in mind. There is a British brand of vitamins, Pregnacare, available at U-Care in Phnom Penh, but in Saigon it's a little harder to come across anything reputable unless you get your doctor to prescribe some.

Q: Where should I have my baby?
A: Most expats in Phnom Penh (in fact, almost all!) leave Cambodia for the birth. Reason being - there aren't any hospitals of international standard - facilities at local hospitals are basic. However - since I left, a branch of a Bangkok hospital called Royal Ratanak opened in Phnom Penh which might be an ok option, but you may need to check it out for yourself! In Saigon, there's a supposed international hospital, FV, where some expats choose to go, however more seem to leave the country to other Asian cities like Bangkok or Singapore, and many return to their home countries.  Some accounts of giving birth at FV paint an ''ok'' picture, but most are quite negative, with particular concerns about poor communication from and between staff, inadequate aftercare with little help in establishing breastfeeding (and giving the baby formula without permission) to incompetent diagnoses of the baby's problems resulting in airlifting to Bangkok(!). The idea of giving birth there didn't fill me with confidence so I chose to return to Samitivej Hospital, Bangkok, where i had my first baby and was really happy with the staff and care and whole experience (except the giving birth bit I mean!).

Q: When do I have to fly to Bangkok/Singapore/wherever else I'm giving birth?
A: This is entirely up to the airlines, rather than your doctor. You need to find out what your particular airline accepts as the latest you can fly, however most (including Thai Airways) cite 36 weeks as the latest in your pregnancy you can fly. You also need a medical certificate or letter from your doctor stating how many weeks you are and your due date, and that you're fit to fly which you need to present upon check-in. I also got a letter to show from when I was 6 months pregnant onwards, just in case they thought I was too pregnant to fly. I'm glad I did as after 6 months (and I was flying all the time!) I kept getting asked for a doctor's letter before boarding.

Q: What are the hospitals like in Bangkok?
A: I can only really speak for Samitivej (where the majority of expats in Cambodia and Laos seem to go, and some from Vietnam) - but it's great! Like a 5-star hotel turned hospital. The staff (all Thai) are so efficient and offer amazing customer service, the doctors very competent and friendly and wonderful, and the aftercare and rooms are great too (they come with a couch bed for partners to sleep on so they can stay in the room with  you, there's internet, a flat-screen tv, and you can get delivery to your room from food outlets in the hospital like Starbucks and Au Bon Pain). Even the hospital food is good! But really, the best bit was the all the advice and support from the nurses and nursery staff in the days after the birth.

Q: Where should I stay before and after the birth?
A: I've found the best option considering the duration of the stay before and after is a serviced apartment. We found ours (Tropical Residence) by chance and luck, before our first Bangkok birth, simply by walking around the neighbourhood near Samitivej Hospital going in and asking to inspect any nice looking serviced apartment buildings we came across! Many only accepted stays by the year or more, but fortunately, Tropical Residence is for short term stays too, either by the week or the month. It has a pool, a small gym, mini-golf on the roof, a complimentary tuk-tuk to take you to nearby shops and skytrain stations (and the hospital) which is so convenient, and best of all is walking distance to lots of great cafes and restaurants and massage places in Thonglor (a cool Bangkok neighbourhood). For other hospitals or other cities, it's best to do some online research, and if all else fails, go and inspect places in person on any pre-baby trips there so you can see for yourself what they're like.

Q: What about visas? And the citizenship and passport for the baby once it's born?
A: These things depend on where you're going and your nationality so a little research is called for. I got a 2 month visa in advance from the Thai embassy in Saigon before I came to Bangkok, otherwise (as an Australian) I would have only been stamped in for 30 days upon arrival. I did the same in Phnom Penh at the Thai embassy there before I left for Bangkok for baby number one. As for the citizenship and passport process, it can be easy or painfully long, depending on your nationality and the whims of your country's embassy! Unfortunately I fall in the latter camp, with the process for Australians a long one. First, Samitivej gets the Thai birth certificate translated into English and they also take the baby's passport photo (so cute!). The translation service takes up to 7 working days, however this time we got ours back around day 5. Then - it's paperwork aplenty before applying at the Australian embassy for citizenship (this is the stage we're up to now). They say it could take up to 10 working days. Then once we have that, it's passport application time (more paperwork, more red tape) and another wait of up to 10 working days. So overall - with the arrival in Bangkok at 36 weeks and all the waiting afterwards, it's around a 2 month stay away from Saigon. Don't be put off though - it sounds like Australians have the worst deal. Other people we know who are French and German have had their baby's passport all done and ready much, much quicker. To find out exactly what you need to do and how long it will take, you need to contact your embassy in the country you're giving birth.

Phew! That about covers the main things I've been asked. If you're having a baby in SE Asia (or thinking about it) I hope you find this a useful starting point!!

Useful links

Tropical Residence (serviced apartments near Samitivej Hospital, Bangkok):
http://www.thaiapartment.com/ServicedApartment/The_Tropical_Residence_Detail.asp

Samitivej Hospital (Bangkok):
http://www.samitivej.info/sukhumvit/birth_unit_en.aspx

My article in AsiaLIFE Guide Phnom Penh on giving birth in Asia:
http://www.asialifeguide.com/Feature/what-to-expect-when-expecting-in-phnom-penh.html

{Cafe Crush} Melt Me, Bangkok

Melt Me is one of Bangkok's many dessert cafes - a concept I just can't get enough of. At this recently opened orange, white and glass cube of a cafe it's all about desserts made from creamy Hokkaido milk, which hails from the Japanese city Sapporo. It's used in Melt Me's chocolates, gelato and even one of its drinks (a ridiculously decadent hot chocolate - basically a huge slab of dark chocolate on a stick that you melt into a cup of hot milk). The staff urge you to try samples of the handmade chocolates (not that my arm needs twisting!), and intriguingly, the gelato and sorbet menu promises some not-yet-available flavours including....beer!


Tried & loved

Chocolate lava cake (129 baht)

Hokkaido milk hot chocolate (149 baht)

3 scoops of gelato - dark chocolate, hazelnut and Hokkaido milk flavours (139 baht)

Chocolate samples - green tea, macadamia and Hokkaido dark (free!)

For more on the story behind Hokkaido milk and Melt Me, check out this piece in the Bangkok Post, and this one in the Nation. And if you happen to be a Bangkok-bound chocoholic, be sure to add Melt Me to your must-do list!

Melt Me, Arena 10, Thonglor Soi 10, Bangkok, www.melt-me.com

At the moment I'm...

...visiting iberry waaaay too often!

....in one of my favourite cities in the world - Bangkok - for up to two months! Am here waiting to have baby number 2 - but I'll save the ins and outs of that for another post. I get so many emails from random readers asking me for more details about having a baby in Asia so I'll do a FAQ post about it soon (that the non-baby minded among you can choose to skip over - I don't want to bore you to death!). In the meantime, here's what I'm:

Watching...

Old episodes of Entourage (playing catch-up) and downloaded TED talks

Reading...

Committed by Elizabeth Gilbert, the follow up novel to Eat Pray Love where she delves into the history and concept of marriage while contemplating her own impending 2nd wedding (which she was basically forced into to allow her Brazilian partner to stay in the US). I'm about halfway through, and so far, it's a pretty interesting read, albeit a little textbook like in parts. I'm hoping for more about her travels in SE Asia and chats with people there about their culture's attitudes towards relationships and marriage, which is meant to be covered but hasn't really been - yet!

Eating...

Lots of Japanese, Thai and desserts (everything chocolate and everything ice-cream - I'm still so in love with iberry!)

Drinking...

Too much coffee for a pregnant chick(!) but Bangkok is a world of temptation, in every way!

Loving...

My new iPod Touch! Still figuring it all out, and welcome any suggestions on good apps to download! So far I have epicurious and Facebook, and that's about it!

Looking forward to...

More Bangkok eats while I still have the chance! On my radar - a chocolate cafe, a taqueria, and some amazing sounding Thai restaurants, including one with a 7-course Thai meets French degustation menu, can't wait!

...how about you?

{Saigon Eats} Dim sum at Shang Palace

Chicken & taro balls

I'm officially obsessed with going for dim sum at Shang Palace. My quest for the best dim sum in Saigon has taken me from the really crappy (the Chinese place behind Pacharan that's currently closed for renovations - and hopefully a complete menu overhaul), to the bit better Windsor Hotel (naff 80s decor, ok but unremarkable dim sum) to the much better dim sum place across the road from the Saigon Zoo (the name escapes me). And then there's Shang Palace! It definitely trumps them all - a chic, contemporary Chinese style space with a menu to die for.

The best bbq pork buns

Shanghai style crab dumplings

Favourite dim sum dishes - chicken and taro balls, barbecue pork buns, prawn dumplings, Shanghai style crab dumplings (soup-style dumplings with vinegar dipping sauce), and the rice rolls with sea scallops, prawns or barbecue pork. Most of the dim sum are from US$2-3 a basket, a price belying the surrounds and service. I love, love, love this place!

Bbq pork in rice rolls

Har cao (prawn dumplings) - all time favourite dim sum dish

Shang Palace, 17-19 Ly Tu Trong (@ Norfolk Mansions), District 1, Saigon, T: +84 8 3823 2221


{UPDATE} Thanks readers Kim and Jenny for reminding me the dim sum place near the zoo is called Ocean Palace, @ 2 Le Duan, D1

{Cafe Crush} AQ Coffee, Saigon

If you like your cafe sua da served up with a dash of colonial-era grandeur, AQ Coffee is the perfect place. A restored villa complete with high ceilings and requisite patterned tiles offers a charming alternative to Saigon's newer mega-cafes with their floor-to-ceiling glass and vinyl lounge chairs.

Outside is a cool, curved bamboo structure emitting a cooling mist, while indoors and upstairs is the best place to relax and escape the relentless traffic noise. My only gripe? The olive coloured interior is a little grim - a coat of bright white paint would much better suit the surrounds!

Go for: a strong, smooth and sweet cafe sua da (iced coffee with milk) served with a cute ice box and tongs
Not for: sandwiches, brownies, that kind of thing - this is a young, trendy local haunt with a Vietnamese food menu to match

AQ Coffee, 32 Pham Ngoc Thach, District 3, Saigon

{Behind the Blog} Vivian from Lost in Translation

That's Vivian on the left!

If you're not already familiar with Lost in Translation (the blog, not the movie!), I highly suggest you take a little trip over. Canadian Vivian is living the good life in Japan, jaunting around cool cities and countryside, shopping at Muji (lucky!) and getting her karaoke on. Here's what's inspiring Vivian at the moment:

Where do you live/where are you now? 

I am currently living and working in Japan. I live on Shikoku island, a beautiful and traditional area located in the southern part of the country. It's my first time living in the countryside, and I love being surrounded by mountains, beaches, and temples.

What are you currently...

...reading? 
These days, all my reading material is about learning Japanese! I'm still struggling with a few kana characters I constantly mix up, and I'm trying to memorize new Kanji on a daily basis. Japanese is a challenging yet fascinating language to learn, and knowing the basics definitely makes my life easier.

…listening to?
Thievery Corporation for lounging around at cafés. MGMT and Shout Out Louds for running. Charlotte Gainsbourg when I bake. Handsome Furs when I miss Montreal. Neutral Milk Hotel for long train rides. Sonic Youth... just all the time.

…watching?
I still watch and re-watch every single episode of Friends. It's such a comforting series, and it makes me feel better when I get lonely. In fact, I cannot fall asleep without an episode in the background.

...cooking?
I'm actually baking a lot, and getting pretty creative in my little toaster oven: vanilla cupcakes, banana muffins, scones and brownies.

…eating?
Cold udon noodles! Udon is famous in my prefecture, and it's very filling, cheap, and refreshing on hot summer days. I love the lemon slice and green onion toppings.

...drinking?
Iced Royal milk tea. I got addicted to milk tea upon my arrival in Japan. It's very popular here, although it's basically just tea mixed with milk, with a hint of cinnamon.

…wearing?
Floral mini skirt and a simple tank. Right now I'm loving florals and stripes paired together.

…planning?
A weekend of fun in Osaka. Osaka is pretty close to me, and my friends and I frequently hop on the bus for a much needed escape... a few days filled with shopping, nightlife and great foods.

…obsessed with? 
Sofia Coppola. I just saw the trailer for her latest film "Somewhere", and I cannot wait to see it. And as always, her style, sophistication and creativity never cease to amaze me and inspire me to do more.

Favourite cuisines?
As much as I love Japanese food, I would have to say Mexican cuisine is my favourite. It's also the most difficult to find in Japan, so every time I go to the import food store I make sure to stock up on spices to cook it at home. I am a bit embarrassed to admit that I will travel as far as Osaka for a Mexican meal!

Favourite travel destinations?
Lately I've been focusing on exploring all of Japan, and it's been so exciting. I love the traditional places like Kyoto and Nara, full of history and temples. Tokyo and Osaka are great for getting lost in translation. I fell in love with Hiroshima, so sad yet wonderful and peaceful. Fukuoka is a beautiful coastal city, and I enjoy all of Shikoku for its wild and rugged natural beauty.

Next trip planned?
Korea this summer. I actually really miss living in Seoul, as it was such an exciting, big metropolis, and I miss my friends dearly. It will be lovely to revisit my old stomping grounds, and catch up with friends.

If you could live anywhere in the world for a year, where and why?
Living in Tokyo is still one of my dreams. I think it would be amazing to experience living in one of the biggest cities in the world, and Tokyo is pretty crazy and hectic, yet livable. It would be some kind of achievement for me!

Who or what inspires you?
Anyone who pursue their dreams. Many people tell me about how lucky I am to be able to live abroad and such. I don't think it's luck at all - it's a choice I made. I admire people who make things happen, even though it's on a small scale.

3 of your must-read blogs?
Sending Postcards - Alex and Mina's around-the-world travel diaries, filled with fantastic pictures.
A Girl in Asia - Makes me dream about visiting Vietnam, and I love the pictures of beautiful little cafés. [AGIA: I should have specified 'except mine!' but thank you!]
Style Scrapbook - I think Andy is gorgeous and stylish, and everything she wears is delightful and inspires me so much.

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I hope you enjoyed this little window into Vivian's world as much as I did!

{Bangkok} A weekend of art and eats

A welcome diversion from retail therapy!

Weekends in Bangkok are without a doubt one of my favourite parts of living in Asia. I can no longer count how many times I've been, but I never, ever get tired of it. There's always something new to see, and so many old favourites I love to revisit every time (hello, Chatuchak Market!).

Our last stay was during the calm before the red shirt brigade storm, and despite the fact Siam and most of its mega malls were barricaded off, there were still more than enough places to go, things to do and delicious eats to find.

Soi Arab
After OD-ing on pad kee mao and larb gai, we decided to ditch our Thai staples in favour of feasting in Soi Arab - a little patch of the Middle East in the seedy part of Sukhumvit. The crowded lane houses eateries ranging from Iranian to Omani to Egyptian, some with outdoor areas where you can indulge in a shisha pipe or two. There are shops selling Moroccan tea sets, exotic perfumed oils and prized (and pricey) agarwood. White robed, bearded men from faraway lands jostle for space on the bustling strip, with barely a Thai or farang (of the western variety) in sight. We ate at Shahrazah, an old school, mixed Middle Eastern restaurant open since 1983 (with the decor to prove it), which the NY Times rates in this piece on the area. Mainstays like succulent lamb, charcoal grilled chicken, hummous, tabouli and pickled vegetables were happily devoured - a delicious diversion from the Bangkok beaten path.

Shahrazah, Sukhumvit Soi 3/1 (between Sois 3 & 5), North Nana

Chatuchak Weekend Market
What would a Bangkok weekend be without getting lost in the maze of stalls forming the world's largest outdoor market?! Probably a saner one - but I can never get enough of Chatuchak and its mix of tiny, unique boutiques mixed with everything else under the sun. As it was the middle of the hot season it was a short but sweet foray into the labyrinth of shopping temptation this time - I didn't even buy much - but we did stop at the cutest cafe to refuel on fruitshakes. Despite its bolthole size and roadside locale, the cafe's tiny wooden crate tables, fresh flowers, chandelier and mirror-backed counter formed a funky little spot of the kind Thai's create so well.

Chatuchak Weekend Market, @ Mo Chit skytrain stop

TCDC (Thailand Creative Design Centre)
For a dose of design, we stopped at TCDC on the 6th floor of Emporium shopping mall (post obligatory Kinokuniya and Boots stock-ups). Its rotating exhibitions are always worth checking out, and this time was no exception. A design retrospective ('What is Design' - on til the end of November) showcasing a 'best of' design from around the world was on, with corners devoted to Italy (the Vespa! Prada shoes!), Sweden, Japan and more.

Alessi, Olivetti & more - Italian design on display

There's also a cool shop with great notebooks, leathergoods, homewares and books, Kiosk cafe and a design library on the same floor - you have to take your passport to enter the library though (note to self - bring it next time!).

The Shop @ TCDC

TCDC, Level 6, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit 24, @ Phrom Phong skytrain stop

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre
Next on our radar was the relatively new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre. Located right near MBK shopping mall, it's an impressive ode to contemporary art in cooler by the day Bangkok, even if its faux-Guggenheim interior looks veeeery familiar!

We checked out a photography exhibition with images spanning 25 years in the life of Thai magazine, Sarakadee, and a colourful collection of paintings by a young Phuket-based girl (which I loved!). Gallery space aside, there are some really funky and unique cafes on the premises. Next time we're in the city there's an 'Icons of French Design' exhibition on, so a return trip is imminent!

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opp. MBK shopping mall @ National Stadium skytrain stop
Open 10am-9pm, closed Mondays, free admission

Ohana Cafe

Always on the lookout for cafes to crush on, I read about Ohana and just knew I'd love it. Down a soi beside Emporium, it's in a flashy expat/rich Thai neighbourhood where people live in luxury condos and drive BMWs, so the cafe's clientele was mostly well heeled Japanese and stylish Thais.

A veritable oasis in a world of Asian eats, Ohana serves up western cafe fare of the most comforting kind, with excellent pastas, a delectable brunch menu, and a molten centre chocolate cake. Travel, design and food books are there for the browsing, and there are cool mid-century style wooden chairs plus an indoor tree. Love!

Ohana Cafe, 50/4 Sukhumvit Soi 24, closest skytrain stop - Phrom Phong